in-cosmetics North America: The Story Behind the Science, Cherie Buziak [Video] 9/2017

in-cosmetics N. America and BeautyEdge LLC have collaborated on an innovative Marketing program at In-Cosmetics N. America this October.  The program, called The Story Behind the Science, was created specifically for product developers and marketers in the beauty industry.  It’s a very experiential and first of its kind program for beauty marketers.

In a guided, 1-hour tour, BeautyEdge (Cherie Buziak) will lead the groups through three different stations.

1.) The Make-up Bar: a space dedicated to the latest innovations in color cosmetics

2.) The Sensory Bar: which highlights products that provide a unique sensorial experience allowing marketers to engage with amazing textures, colors and fragrances

3.) The Innovation Zone:  where marketers will be introduced to new technologies that have launched in the last six months.

View video for additional information on Focus On Marketing: The Story Behind The Science.  In-Cosmetics N. America

 Registration is free, but you must register to attend:  The Story Behind the Science

We look forward to seeing you there!


The WOW! Effect

It's said that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and in a venue like In-Cosmetics, the attention of beauty is captured by those things that sparkle, twinkle, illuminate, glow, bubble, shimmer, shine and beg to be viewed and appreciated by an experience using multiple senses. Among aisles and aisles of new technologies, innovative advancements, presentations, studies, and flashing signage that saturated the space at In-Cosmetics London, one of the common factors gaining attention were booths with engaging displays and eye catching appeal.  


Photo credit;  cherie buziak #in-cosmetics17

In today's Beauty Market, we who are involved in bringing products to market face that same challenge -- catching the consumer's eye, even when the consumer may be quickly walking or surfing by. With more sales completed digitally, how do we connect to the consumer? How do we make that sale? What moves a consumer to the purchase? One piece to consider is the WOW! effect. It's not something new, but it is more important now than ever.

These same things that attract us as product developers, chemists, innovators and game changers are the same things that attract our final customer. The goal is gathering all of the technology available to us to deliver something new, fresh and outstanding.

Yet, the secret sauce isn't always in the perceived visual. While continuing to try to capture the consumer's interests and market share, these eye candy, visually appealing aesthetics as pictured above is the goal. And innovation is key. 

For example, it isn’t really the sparkle that is being presented as the technology in the image; the technology is in the vehicle that suspends the glitter, the clarity of the gel, and the way the suspension of the formula holds the weight of these particles. All of these elements combined are the interrupters of someone walking by to stop, take a look, explore, ask questions and engage with the product.  

Are you interested in adding a WOW! effect to your products? Do you need technology or ideas  that will make your products stand apart and intrigue the consumers enough that they will step in and purchase the product?  If you'd like to learn more about creating aesthetic appeal or a strategy for your brand, contact me to schedule a consultation to talk through your goals. Email  Check out our site


You’ve decided to create your own private-label beauty brand. Congratulations! Next steps?

If developing a new cosmetic brand is on your wish list, I’d like to share a few key thoughts to keep in mind. 


three things to keep in mind concerning cosmetic product development.  

Concept. This is the beginning. What is the story that you would like to tell about your product?  Will it help reduce lines and wrinkles? Will it help moisturize skin? Will it help even skin tone? If it's a color collection, what is the shade line up?  How well will it wear?  Whatever the product story is, take the time to really think about how you can communicate your product in three words. Use your creative power and write out the look, the texture, how it will feel on skin, the color of the bulk, what the experience is that you want the final user to enjoy and benefit from. Write out  the claims of how the product will benefit the end user.

Note: With writing claims, you will need to ensure that the claims are viable through clinical studies.  Make sure that you have a budget set aside for testing. In the beginning, just start with a wish list of claims. This is the list that you’ll be turning over to your chemist so that he/she will know how the product should perform. THE TAKEAWAY: Create a profile for your product.

Benchmark. It’s best to start with a benchmark formula especially if you have never developed a product before. A benchmark can be a competitive product that you like for the aesthetic application, a product that you like for end benefits, or a starter formula from a chemist’s library. The reason to have a benchmark available is that the chemist or lab will know exactly where you want to land with the finished product, how you want it to look, how it should be dispensed, etc.  A benchmark will streamline the process and will take out a lot of guessing and reworking of the formula along the way, which can turn into hours of lab time and added expenses. The chemist will also be able to look at the ingredient list and will have a better idea if the performance that you have in mind will match up to some of the materials that are in your benchmark formula. You can always make tweaks along the way to customize the formula, but if it’s your first time starting out with a product, it’s easier to stay in close range of your benchmark target. THE TAKEAWAY: Have a formula starting point.

Ingredients or technology. Do you have to have the next best innovation or high-end technology in your formula to see a difference on the skin? Well, actually, yes and no. You can have a compelling story and great product performance by being very clear about what you would like the final formula to do. Let the chemist decide the primary materials to use as your formula base, and then if there is a technology or ingredient that you are particularly interested in, have a conversation with the chemist to see if the material is compatible in the base, and also inquire about the cost of the technology. At the end of development, the full product will be tested for the performance that you are looking for, so don’t be guided only on the active ingredient as the workhorse in the formula. THE TAKEAWAY: Trust your chemist.  

Bonus point: Hire an expert to help you. Can you guide the development of a cosmetic or skin care product on your own? Sure, yes, you can. However, like everything else, is this really the one more thing that you want to add to your plate? If you want to get your product launched in a timely fashion, don’t hesitate to bring on the extra help you’ll need to source vendors, finalize the technology, develop formulas, speak in chemist language, or to use as a second eye for design, copy, and marketing.

If launching your own private-label cosmetic or skin care brand is in your plan for 2017, or if you’d like to learn more, contact me to schedule a consultation to talk through your goals. Email  Check out our site



 Imagine this:  You’ve developed your own private-label products, or perhaps you put together a few natural ingredients and are packaging your own custom formula in your facility.  You introduce the product to a long-standing client, and suddenly an allergic reaction occurs with your client or, worse yet, an infection develops after using the product. Now what?  

Having been in the product development beauty industry for years, I’ve been privy to cases where the  end product users will try to gain compensation against products they have tried on their skin, even if the formula is rigorously tested and passes all sensitivity and safety measures.  A reaction can happen. And even if you think a responsible gesture such as paying for your client’s doctor bill will cover you, it won’t. A client can sue you for damages that you never even thought of, even if they misuse the product. And unless you’re ready to back yourself up with a lawyer and court fees, the situation can put you out of business.

Here’s three thoughts to keep in mind to help protect you when developing your own brand.

Safety. It’s best to have your formulas developed with a  reputable lab that specifically prides itself in using quality-controlled ingredients. Controlled ingredients means that the material used from batch to batch will satisfy testing standards and that there will be aesthetic consistency with your formula from batch to batch.  Once the formula is made, some safety testing measures include checking that your product helps prevent a micro environment that’s ready for bacterial growth, testing for known skin sensitivities, and testing for acceptable use around the eye area.  THE TAKEAWAY:  Test products for safety

Stability. It’s easy to add xyz ingredient to a formula, bottle it, and then put a label on it.  However, consider that each adjustment made to a specific formula will affect your overall formula ingredient list (IL) or formula balance. The product must be tested for stability so that it doesn’t separate in the long term and that it can maintain its integrity in different environmental conditions. Additionally, package compatibility helps ensure that the component will not leak any of your formula and that the formula works with the component materials.   THE TAKEAWAY:  Ensure product stability

Product Liability Protection. Search for insurance companies that not only cover you and your business but also cover you and your products. Ask “what if” situational questions. For example: What if a client decides to sue you because a product that you sold them burned their skin or caused further skin complications? According to Sara Bumby  FirstImpactNY, it’s imperative that Product Liability insurance is purchased because “Most contract manufacturer and distributors will require it to work with you. Although it is not required by  law to have product liability insurance, the importance to protect yourself from a potential lawsuit is critical, or loss of your goods. I think of it similar to Homeowners insurance, it is there to protect me for the just in case situation.”  

According to Sara, “There are two main different types of insurance in the cosmetics industry which I would recommend researching, Product Liability and Professional Liability. Product Liability for cosmetics, which includes all personal care, is a specialty insurance that not all insurance carriers cover. When researching the right company for you, let them know the type of products you want to cover with your policy first thing. This insurance is for the physical goods. It not only can help protect you from a lawsuit, but will also protect your goods in case something happens and you are in need to replace them. (Every policy is different. Reading the fine print of what will and will not be covered is critical.)”    

“Additionally, Professional liability is for people who give advice. Are you directing people on the use of the products? Could you, by an error or omission, misdirect someone in the use of a product? If so, then this may be another insurance you need to look into for yourself. Be sure to research whether this will cover you if you have a blog.” THE TAKEAWAY:  Protect yourself and your business  

Bonus point: Hire an expert to help you. Can you launch a brand on your own? Sure, yes, you can. However, like everything else, is this really the one more thing that you want to add to your plate? And how are you going to protect yourself and your brand against any potential mishaps? If you want to get your product or brand launched in a timely fashion and ensure that it is safe and stable, don’t hesitate to bring on the extra help you’ll need to source vendors, finalize the technology and formulas, and to speak in chemists language.

If launching your own private label brand is in your plan for 2017 or if you’d like to learn more, contact me to schedule a consultation to talk through your goals. Email  Check out our site

If you’d like to learn more about quality control and global regulatory requirements, contact Sara Bumby  Or visit her site FirstImpactNY

Stay tuned for the next post in this series on  “product and formula development.


It’s 2017 and perhaps you’ve thought “I want to launch my own skin care/cosmetic collection.” If you are a small business owner, an esthetician, or a cosmetic medical or spa owner, launching a new product brand is a great way to establish yourself in the marketplace and gain additional income for your business.

If a new brand is in your future, here are a few things to consider.

1.  Have a plan. Start out with a  business plan supported by a marketing plan. Your plan is adjustable and you can change it along the way. Consider it almost like a living document. In the plan, consider your mission statement, your goals, the financial commitment needed for your brand for development and sell-through, your target market, pricing strategy and competitors. It doesn’t take a long time to create a plan, but you need to know where you are going and how much this will all cost. And consider the extra help or expertise that you may need to hire on, even if temporarily, to get your brand launched. THE TAKEAWAY: Create a business plan.

2. Marketing. Alongside a business plan is a marketing plan. Sometimes marketing plans are included at the end of the business plan as an addendum. However you treat it, it’s best to have a marketing plan in place. Once you have thought about your products and created your business plan, how are you going to sell the product through? What PR support or other media will you use to promote your collection? How will you plan new product launches or introductions? This, like the business plan, can have room for adjustments along the way. THE TAKEAWAY: Create a marketing plan as you create your business plan.  

3. Start small. Depending on the size of your facility, there is no need to rush into launching a 10 to 20 sku collection. Start with just a few key pieces to give you the opportunity to introduce the products and its special features to your clients. Also, launching with only a few pieces allows room to spare for new product launches in the future. THE TAKEAWAY:  A conservative launch is okay.  

Bonus point: Hire an expert to help you.  Can you launch a brand on your own? Sure, yes, you can. However, like everything else, is this really the one more thing that you want to add to your plate? Adding product development can be a great note for your CV, but if you want to get your product out in a timely fashion, don’t hesitate to bring on the extra help you’ll need to source vendors, finalize the technology, develop formulas, speak in chemist language, or to use as a second eye for design, copy, and marketing.


If launching your own private-label brand is in your plans or if you’d like to learn more, contact me to schedule a consultation to talk through your goals.  Email  Check out our site

Stay tuned for the next post in this series: “Protect yourself against possible product liabilities.”


Skin Needling

The following review and test on Skin Needling is free of charge from BeautyEdge LLC. 

To take the certified test on Skin Needling and receive (1) continuing education credit, follow the NCEA link and instructions  > > >  NCEA    ******************************************************************************************

Skin Needling 

Skin needling can also be referred to as micro-needling therapy, collagen induction therapy (CIT), percutaneous collagen induction (PCI), derma rolling, dry tattooing, and intradermabrasion. A minimally invasive nonsurgical and non-ablative procedure, it involves the use of a micro-needling device to create minute, yet controlled skin injury.

There are a number of different skin-needling device brands in the market today. This review is a broad stroke study of the skin-needling process in general. This review does not provide proof or permission that estheticians should be providing micro-needing services. Estheticians should check state regulations for microneedling guidelines before rendering any services.

Before starting any micro needling procedures, patients need to be fully informed of the potential complications. It is imperative that they sign an informed consent form. This protects both patient and clinician in the event of an adverse result.

The purpose of the design of micro needles is to cause a measured degree of damage to the skin thus triggering the skin to heal, stimulating collagen development. The length of the needle will determine which area of the skin will be affected to trigger best aesthetic results.

Skin needling is not comparative to chemical peels, dermabrasion, or laser treatments, as skin needling directly targets specific skin layers, cells, and trigger points within the skin to produce the desired end result.

There are various skin-needling device designs available on the market. Some design options are needles secured on a circular roller that are rolled over the skin, needle stampers, and pens with cartridges with a cluster of needles at the tip.

Micro-Needling FDA Classifications: There are three classes for medical devices under FDA ruling. Class I includes devices with the lowest risk, and Class III includes those with the greatest risk. No matter the classification level, the FDA does not automatically approve a medical device just because of its named classification by the manufacturer.

Skin-Needling Process: Fine needles puncture the skin, creating a channel or minute wounds. It is the skin’s own physiological response to that damage that develops the desired aesthetic result. Once the skin is wounded, and depending on the depth and location of the wound, the skin’s regenerative potential brings about remodeling and the formation of new structures, eventually resulting in repair of the affected skin structure. Improvement is seen with multiple treatments; however, results can still be limited based on variables such as an individual’s age, health, skin type, skin quality, and extent of existing skin damage.

Needle Length and Performance: All sizes of needling cause injury to skin; however, according to Aust, Baithe and Fernandes, authors of the book, Illustrated Guide to Percutaneous Collagen Induction: Basics, Indications, Uses (Aesthetic Methods for Skin Rejuvenation), the length of the needle mainly determines if the device is cosmetic, medical, or surgical, and thus whose hands should administer the procedure.

Cosmetic Needling or micro-needling extends to just below the stratum corneum (0.1–0.3mm needles; this type of needling does not cause percutaneous collagen induction [PCI]; it is merely a method to enhance penetration of topically applied active ingredients). No anesthesia required.

Medical Needling extends into the papillary dermis. Medical needling (1–2mm needles; at this depth one can expect PCI). Local anesthetic cream is used. Performed on an outpatient basis.

Surgical Needling extends as far as the reticulardermis or subcutis. Surgical needling (3mm needles; PCI). General or regional anesthesia is required.

Esthetician Regulations: It is recommended that skincare professionals know their scope of practice within their state and obtain the proper training before offering any new treatments or services.

Esthetician Guidelines:

  • Follow state regulations if allowable and under what conditions.
  • Quality instruments should be used. Poor quality instruments may lead to breakage of needles in skin.
  • Gain training on the device being used.
  • Client education: Review treatment plan and expectations pre-treatment.
  • Client consent: Ensure client understands and signs agreement.
  • Documentation of the treatment procedure in client chart.
  • Client post-treatment: Review at-home product use and updates.

Symptoms and irregularities that can be treated by micro needling vary depending upon:

  • size of needle
  • depth of needle penetration
  • the angle that the needle penetrates the skin
  • the angle that the needle withdraws from the skin
  • the speed at which the needles enter and leave the skin

Benefits of skin needling:

  • reduction of scars
  • reduction of wrinkles
  • reduction of acne
  • reduction of hyperpigmentation
  • reduction of hypopigmentation
  • improvement in skin texture, firmness, and hydration
  • reduction of hypertrophic scars caused by acne, surgery, thermal burns
  • fading of stretch marks
  • reducing fine lines and deep wrinkles
  • improvement in dyspigmentation/melisma
  • reduced risk of hyperpigmentation and scarring, therefore safe on darker skin

Possible Side Effects: The goal is to have minimal pain, redness, and discomfort to the patient/client receiving a skin-needling procedure. Generally, the procedure is well tolerated depending on the area to be treated and the severity of the problem. However, in cases where a longer needle is used and the treatment is facilitated by a physician, surface bleeding can occur.

Normally, the treated areas recover rapidly from skin needling. However, there are occasional side effects, which include:

  • Oozing and swelling during the recovery phase
  • Skin infection or herpes simplex
  • Milia development
  • Acne flare
  • Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
  • Use of topical formulas with the treatment can sometimes produce undesirable skin reactions.

Post-procedure care: Skin needling is well tolerated by most patients, but dryness, scaling, redness, and swelling may be seen after treatment, lasting for several days or longer, depending on the depth of penetration of the needles. Clients can gently cleanse the area treated and, depending upon desired skin improvement, topical formulas and/or topical antibiotics can be recommended and prescribed.

Rejuvenation of skin may be seen as soon as one to two weeks and as long as six to eight months after the medical procedure. Burn scars are slow to respond. It can take up to six months to one year to see the final results from a single treatment.

Necessary follow-up treatments depend on the individual skin condition and desired results. Individuals must be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.



 You are always a student, never a master. You have to keep moving forward. Conrad Hall